Maria Trip, painted by Dutch painter Rembrandt, wears very fashionable and costly 17th-century garments. Stays, was the term used for the fully boned laces bodices worn under clothes from the late 16th or early 17th century, until the end of the 18th century. Look at a lot of Watteau’s work though, and it’s easy to see how the women needn’t have been wearing stays under their dresses.
That yellow quilted number reminds me of the kind that Maria wears in a scene from Sound of Music, which was probably a nod to an earlier kind of costume. I checked the OED for ‘jumps’ while I was at it, and they suggest that the word is a corruption of the French ‘juppe’, meaning ‘jup’ or ‘juppe’, a woman’s jacket or bodice. I was wondering also, is there some kind of pattern to the difference of when these garment were worn over the clothes/chemise as outer wear (long before Madonna did it!) The Corset: A Cultural History. Dresses by Time Period. In France the peasants, in general, appear to have gone without stays, and even among the aristocracy stays, though usually worn, were only mandatory at formal court functions. I’ve already posted about the difference between swiss waists, waist cinchers, corsets & corselets. (A petticoat was originally a petty coat, a short coat worn by a man but women borrowed the term).
Also, in that context isn’t stay a synonym for sustain? Crewel embroidered petticoat, 18th century August Auctions Mid-18th century petticoat, Vermont, linen plain weave with wool embroidery MFA Accession Number 38.79 Mid-18th…, Chemise Dress Circa Late 18th C from the V&A, Hi everyone! The 3rd from the bottom, white, corded, 1800-1825 is so beautiful! 18th C. (c. 1750-60) CORSET In the 18th century, a woman's stays were an integral part of her wardrobe. Just astounding. Thanks for the history lesson; I was not previously aware either of how the terms “stays” and “corset” came into use or when they became synonymous. My Oxford English Dictionary supports the origin from the French verb ‘estayer’, to steady or support something. One such archaeological find took place in an Austrian castle in 2012.
Fashion has always been a spectrum, and it is quite likely that one woman might have a garment which she would call jumps, while another would call the item a corset. From the 14 th century onwards costume began to introduce new elements simply for the sake of variety and change rather than function.. 16 th Century Iron Corsets.
17th Century Undergarments Photo Shoot. All rights reserved. From c. 1740 usually as plural ‘jumps’ (‘a pair of jumps’). Originally used for informal wear at the start to the of the 18th century, they were worn throughout the century as a more comfortable alternative to stays, and became more popular at the end of the century with the change in fashion from the elaborate 18th century styles to the softer neoclassical styles. all very interesting…everyone’s comments and Leimomi’s article. Apr 22, 2016 - Explore Christina S's board "1600s undergarments" on Pinterest. Made of the softest crinkle gauze 100% silk chiffon, it floats and caresses your body as you move. I’m sure it is really confusing in another language, especially as people have never been particularly precise about clothing terms. Now, to come up with a similar thing for Czech…. On one hand, they were promoted as a healthier alternative to stays by doctors and others who felt that too restrictive stays were unhealthy. Well, every source I have found suggests estayer as the origin, so I’m dependent on the wisdom and research of those more knowledgeable here. I’m currently going through the published letters of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (say that 10x fast!) That is a particularly pretty corded corset isn’t it? Delaney, Mary.
Ruffles could be added to the neck and sleeves.
Why we wear, what we wear. The narrow self faced neck and sleeve ruffles add a soft, romantic touch. They had to have hand-worked eyelets, and no visible boning channels, or they were undergarments.
Stays with sleeves 1660-70 Victoria & Albert Museum. I can not remember the spelling or even if this is the right term. I agree, such interesting info! "Sew" I chose to create an embroidered under petticoat. Oh yes! So, big news: I’m expecting! The yellow waistcoat posted above is a good example. One of the citations is from 1825-80 Jamieson, ‘Jumps, a kind of easy stays , open before, worn by nurses.’ (ie nursing mothers.) Every body has left off even corsets.”. Among these was the corset. Augusta Auctions. 18th century visitors to England consistently commented on how even the peasants wore stays, though they might only have one pair (often leather) which was worn constantly without washing. during the 18th century, and in rural use in the 19th; usually fitted to the bust, and often used instead of stays. The cut could be very much like a pair of stays and be more or less boned (sometimes with visible boning channels, especially the lather ones), depending on were in Sweden they were born.
Bulcock, J. Quaint English cottage. .
And I’d be interested to know how the difference between laced bodices in folk costumes (worn outside) and stays/corsets (worn inside) came about, too… especially seeing as Leimomi mentions that at one time, outer garments with boning in them were more proper than boned undergarments. (If you're not familiar with the Curtain-Along, click here.) Explorer. http://www.staylace.com/gallery/gallery05/annaheld/. I guess it would be easy to get away with not wearing stays in the softer styles of the 80s and 90s. Why can’t we get wool damask like that today!? for research and just yesterday came across a note she made about this very thing.
Stays turned the torso into a stiff, inverted cone, raising and supporting the bust, and providing a solid foundation on which the garments draped. Stays and corsets were used quite interchangeably in the early decades of the 19th century.
The stays gave the woman support and added the correct and fashionable shape to her body. Delighted to have been helpful! She was a woman ahead of her time! (Student of English asking curiously.).
What a cool article–and a wonderful conversation that followed. There are 13-15 quilting stitches per inch. As the fashions changed and the popularity of jumps rose, other forms of soft undergarments also evolved. I hadn’t realised the vagaries of how the terms were not entirely interchangeable at different times. Jan 9, 2013 - 17th century undergarments - Google Search.
I’d be a little wary of staylace – a lot of the research is dependent on VERY old and rather shady writing.
I can’t recall the scene, but it’s two to one it was a nod to folk costumes. I think a lot of the not wearing stays was under robe battante or the sort of loose jackets shown in Arnold, and women were less likely to be painted in these. See more ideas about Historical clothing, Historical fashion, Historical costume. Search the Metropolitan Museum's Collection Online.
Very interesting! I really enjoyed this discussion, but I’m wondering if you can clarify something for me. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. A 1762 poem describes a woman as “Now a neat shape in stays, now a slattern in jumps.”, Waistcoat (probably of the type also known as jumps) England, ca. Ruffles could be added to the neck and sleeves. Pink silk satin petty coat; quilted in diaper pattern at top with deep border of garlands in ovals with rosettes and narrow diagonal lines across bottom; linen lining stamped near pocket slit with a black "c" over "k" within black circle about 1" in diameter; pocket slits at sides, later white silk pocket sewn in one; later white cotton draw cord in replacement waistband. I’d love to read about the distinctions in Czech! I’ve done some pretty heavy lifting and work in my stays, and I find they actually help with the manual labour – they provide back support all day long. When boned garments were outer or underwear depends on the garment, and is a class, cultural AND period specific thing! 1745, Silk quilted and bound with grosgrain silk ribbon and braid, with boned canvas, Victoria & Albert Museum.
Another terminology thing you may not be aware of: “pair” originally could mean either “a couple (i.e. I found some Ana Held quotes a while ago and was quite puzzled by her frequent use of the word “stays”. Dress. A holdover!
Thank you.
The Anatomy of Fashion: Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today. I need to make a set of stays for the mid 18-teens. How fascinating that ladies were only required stays at court.
I think the use of stays stayed longer as a more common term in NZ than in the US, for example.
Steele, Valerie.
Can be made in either white or black. a set of two)” OR “a set, greater than two”. Half-boned stays, 1770s-80s, French, Museé du Costume et de la Dentelle. Jumps were softer, significantly less boned (and sometimes completely unboned), bodices or soft stays which still provided some bust support, but did not shape the body into such a ‘elegant’ cone shape. There is a difference between being required to wear stays at court, and ONLY being required to wear stays at court. Grandma relied on a simple suspender belt to keep up her stockings, and embraced tights with glee.
Great post! Corset, like corsage, comes from the French term for a body (corps) and the term was first used in France in the 1770s (though there had been an earlier Medieval/Renaissance usage of corset which described a decorative sleeveless bodice). You couldn’t wear “incommodious stays” when you were breast-feeding. I guess I didn’t word that sentence very well. Stays, 1770-1790 (made). I’d have to figure out what sources to use first… there’s a lot less available in Czech.
And if you don’t mind, I’ll edit and incorporate some of this into the article so it’s all there.
Stays were more commonly worn in England than in France.
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